The magnificent Galayar bastions are the quintessential alpine climbing school in the Central Region. 180 kilometers from Madrid, nestled in the Gredos massif, its high peaks create a fantastic and evocative, yet haunting, landscape; its wall was once described as "of tragic beauty." Far from fashionable circles, its hundreds of routes await every weekend the select few who make the nearly three-hour trek to the base. For hikers, the Galayars represent a constant surprise on one of the most beautiful hikes in the Iberian Peninsula.
The first glimpse of Galayar leaves a memory that's hard to forget, especially if you're lucky and are alone, or at least with few people. Its unmistakable profile, with at least forty imposing spires reaching up to 300 meters, bordering on verticality, forming perfect prisms and slender peaks.
Galayo is a word of Arabic origin that means bare rock that rises on a mountain, a rocky prominence, bare and isolated.
Los Galayos is an abyss paradise. It has everything, even adhesion plates. More than 300 routes up to 8a+. However, the vast majority must be protected with friends and nuts. No chemical bolts or prabolts, except on very rare occasions. There are some bolts or spits from the 1960s, 1970s, and 1980s, when the rise of aid created all kinds of routes previously impossible using stirrups.
INCLUDES:
- Individual and group equipment for the activity
- Accident and liability insurance
- Climbing guide
Grupos
desde 1 hasta 2
Duración
2 dias
Dificultad
Nivel 4
We'll be climbing 3 routes this weekend.
Saturday
Route on Pequeño Galayo and Gran Galayo to gain confidence in this type of climbing.
-Pequeño Galayo:
West (100 m, IV+):
Antonio Flores, Florencio Fuentes, Alfredo Granda, and Rafael Pellús, 8/14/1957. "The most classic route on the spire, along with the South face of La Apretura" (M). The best route is the vertical wall below. "The summit slab is usually avoided" and "a nearby V+ handcrack that is well protected" is chosen (N)
-Gran Galayo:
Grand Dihedral (100 m, IV+): Antonio Flores, Pedro González Andrade, Adolfo Herráez, Ignacio Lucas, and Rafael Pellús, 10/12/1956. The route runs to the end of the marked dihedral on the SW face, then along steps and channels. “Magnificent for beginners” (A-N). The first two pitches can be linked with 55m ropes. According to Flores, the climb took place on Hispanic Heritage Day, the same day as the first absolute ascent to Punta Margarita.
Sunday
-Torreón de los Galayos:
Direct southbound (170m, V):
Teógenes Díaz, Enrique Herreros, Juan Bautista Mato, Franco Orgaz, and Ángel Tresaco (June 10, 1934), route straightened by Florencio Fuentes Floro, José González Folliot Pepín, and Antonio Rojas, July 19, 1947. A must-see on the Iberian Peninsula. The slab used today as the entrance is hard, most likely V, although it can be avoided by a succession of steps and alcoves. The pitches to the base of the dihedral, which leads to the gap between the two summits, seek the obvious path to a platform with a small cave. The dihedral is very beautiful and aerial.
We'll leave very early, at 7:00 a.m., from the La Cabra parking lot to the Victory Hut on Saturday. The climb to the Victory Hut takes about three hours at a gentle pace, as its more than 500 m of elevation gain will warm up your legs and prepare them for the climb ahead.
After refueling at the hut, we'll equip ourselves with climbing gear to begin the two routes we've planned: one on the pequeño Galayo and the other on the Gran Galayo. Once we've finished the climb, we'll return to the hut to rest and prepare a well-earned dinner.
On Sunday, there's no need to get up early, as we're already at the top and the approach to the south face of Torreón isn't very long from the Victory Hut. We'll start the climbing route around 11:00 a.m., finishing and returning to the hut around 3:00 p.m. Once at the refuge, we'll gather some energy with a bite to eat and then head back down to the cars. We're planning to be back at the goat parking lot around 6:00 p.m.
2 people: €300 per person
1 person: €500
Each group consists of a maximum of 2 participants.
The ratio will always be 1 guide per 2 participants.
A spot is considered reserved once 100% of the activity fee has been paid.
Includes:
-Climbing guide
-Individual and group equipment for the activity
-Liability and accident insurance
Not Included:
-Transportation
-Food and drinks
ACTIVITY CANCELLATION
See conditions at condiciones generales de actividades
Minimum equipment required per person:
Comfortable mountain clothing appropriate for the current temperature, hiking shoes or boots,
Sun hat, sunglasses,
Sunscreen and lip cream,
Water (minimum 1.5 l),
Something to eat during the day. We don't recommend too much, as experience tells us that after a heavy meal, what you want is a nap and not to climb again.
A backpack to be able to climb with.
Fotos
